Naples: Winter Thermal Spa Day Ticket with Steam Caves & Mud

Swim outdoors in hot volcanic spring water in the cold winter air, then move indoors to warm thermal pools and saunas. Natural steam caves and thermal mud are included in your ticket.
Most thermal spas move indoors when it gets cold. Here, winter happens outside. The spring rises from volcanic ground at over 70°C, so hot that it has to be cooled before it fills the open-air pools, each kept at a different temperature. You slip in while the air is cold, the steam rises around you, and the park stays green all year.

The stufe that give the place its name are natural caves where hot, humid steam comes straight out of the rock. The Romans used them as sweating rooms, and people have never stopped. Your ticket includes them, and the thermal mud too, all day long.

The water is officially recognised by the Italian Ministry of Health, the same recognition given to Italy’s historic thermal springs. Its colour changes from pool to pool: in one of them it turns greenish, because that is how the spring water looks when it comes out of the ground.

History left its mark too. The Romans came here from nearby Baiae, the most fashionable resort of the empire. In the Middle Ages these baths were described in De Balneis Puteolanis, the illustrated poem on the thermal springs of Pozzuoli that was read across Europe. In the age of the Grand Tour, Mozart visited as a boy with his father; later, Hans Christian Andersen came here three times and wrote about it in his diary.

When you want a break from the cold, move indoors: there are warm thermal pools, a winter garden, a Finnish sauna, a steam bath, quiet rooms, showers and changing rooms. From late October to late March the park stays open until 11 pm on Monday, Tuesday, Thursday and Friday, and the bistrot stays open too: you can have dinner and go back into the water under the night sky.

Rain in Naples is a good reason to come: the water is just as warm whatever the weather.

This is a local thermal park, not a hotel spa. Neapolitan families have been coming here for generations. Children of any age can use the outdoor pools; the indoor pools and the ancient part of the baths, with the steam caves, are for adults only. At weekends it gets lively; for a quieter visit, choose a weekday.

Getting here: take the Cumana train from Naples Montesanto to Lucrino, then walk 10 minutes. If you come by car, there is parking at the entrance.

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