Tel Aviv: Jaffa, Neve Tzedek & Carmel Market with Tasting

Walk 4,000 years of history in one 5.5-hour route: ancient Jaffa, Neve Tzedek, the Bauhaus White City and Carmel Market, with tastings and a licensed guide in English or Russian.
Most visitors see Jaffa and Tel Aviv as two separate stops. They are one story, and the five-hour walk between them is how it makes sense. We begin above the excavations at Kedumim Square, where a port city traded across the Mediterranean thousands of years before Tel Aviv had a name. Egyptians, Romans, Crusaders and Ottomans each left a layer beneath your feet. We take in the Clock Tower, St. Peter's Church, and the hilltop of Abrasha Park, where the view runs the whole length of the coast, and where you can see the rest of the route laid out in front of you. Throughout, I separate what is archaeological evidence, what is scholarly interpretation, what is tradition and what is legend. That distinction is the point of the tour, and it is what people tell me they remember. Then we walk north, the same direction the city itself moved. At HaTachana, the Jaffa-Jerusalem railway station of 1892, the country turns inland from the sea. But Neve Tzedek, a few minutes further, was built in 1887, five years before the railway arrived. Why did people leave the walls of Jaffa before the road existed? You will have the answer by the time we reach Shabazi Street. We pass the restored houses of the first neighbourhood outside Jaffa and the Suzanne Dellal Centre, then cross into a city laid out forty years later on completely different principles. Around Rothschild Boulevard stand roughly 4,000 International Style buildings, the largest concentration anywhere in the world, inscribed by UNESCO as World Heritage in 2003. I will show you how to read a facade, and how to tell an original from a renovation. We finish by walking down Nahalat Binyamin, a street laid out in 1909, the same year the city was founded by a lottery of seashells. It ends at Carmel Market, created in the 1920s by residents of the Yemenite Quarter next door, and since joined by Balkan, Iraqi, Persian and North African families within a few streets of one another. You can read fifty years of immigration in the produce on display, and taste it: freshly made malawach, a traditional sabich, Turkish burekas, cheeses, olives and halva cut from the block. Four thousand years ago people bought their food two miles from here, at the port. They still buy it here. Come hungry, the tastings add up to a light meal. Tell me about allergies or dietary restrictions when you book and I will adapt the tasting route. Vegetarian, kosher and gluten-free versions all work. There is a break with restrooms and coffee at HaTachana, roughly halfway through. I am a licensed guide and I work in English and Russian.

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